We have occasionally intended to eat lunch in the Recess Room but overlooked the fact that it is only open for dinner service. It transpired that we weren’t the only ones who had this idea. The hours of operation improved in early November. Chef Nikko Marquez and his Fountain Valley staff are ready to satisfy your craving for their modern Asian cuisine from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., Tuesday through Friday. Providing speedy service because most customers are pressed for time, diners only need to peruse the chalkboard wall upon arrival, place their order, pay the host, and then claim a table inside or outside. There is enough variety to satisfy, especially if you don’t keep track of calories. Prices range from $9 for a Korean BBQ tofu and kimchi bowl to $16 for a sizzling meat extravaganza.
Instead of drinking during the day, find out about the agua fresca, which varies every day. Our tall concoction of fresh strawberries, pineapple, and rose water would go well with the lunch menu’s various flavors. The $12 entrée of Thai BBQ pork was saved from being a one-note dish by pickled cucumbers and crispy shallots. A generous farmers’ market salad ($10) changes with the season and, on the day I visited, featured watermelon radish, Asian pears, and golden beets. Choose a side of protein or go with the secondary leafy greens ($12), which come with tandoori chicken dressed with yogurt and herbs.
People who are unfamiliar with Recess may choose to start with the robust “Fili” cheesesteak ($14; a tribute to the chef’s Filipino origin). A sloppy good time is guaranteed when provolone and grilled onions mix with the beef. A better bone-marrow burger ($12) with a compound butter loaded with the good stuff that melted evenly over our grass-fed patties and bacon jam is also deserving of your attention. Pair it with potatoes that have been flavored with ginger, kaffir lime, tamarind, and galangal. A silky, traditional Mornay sauce will be poured over them if you choose the ooey-gooey option.
The Most Valuable Platter title goes to Marquez’s fiery take on steak and eggs, though. Albondigas meatballs, longanisa sausage, and fillet mignon are flavored with cognac, black pepper, and soy sauce, while bread rounds provide the required carbs and a fried egg adds a yolky oozing. According to co-owner Viet Pham, the skillet combines global flavors in a way that is reminiscent of the Vietnamese dish bánh m chao. It will satisfy your carnivore desires and make you the talk of the dining room when it is brought to the table still steaming.
